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Adventure to the Everglades Cape Sable
DUNCAN INTHE EVERGLADES
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The true small adventure including a Sheltie and sharks -- and a few mosquitoes We were camped at the very tip of Florida(if you don't count theKeys), at Flamingo Campground on Florida Bay in Everglades National Park. We studied our maps and talked to some Parkofficials, and found that there was a way throughcountless small islands and mangroves, through the evergladesto a shore about 20 miles to the west of Flamingo, called CapeSable. Cape Sable was said to have a pink beach literally made from shells, andalso was habitat to the rare and elusive Cape Sable Sparrow, which weall wanted to see. We figured that we would likely see other wildlifeand interesting plantain this little-frequented wild area of the national park, so we loaded up the canoes and took off at dawnone day. The canoes had to carry everything from mosquito repellent tofood and water, to sleeping bags, plus five people each,sothey were loaded nearly to the gunwales. Our blue Sheltie, Duncan,resident genius andveteran of many expeditions, rode in the canoe that I was paddling.Our prow guy was Alan, and I paddled from thebuilt-in bench at the stern. Two more people sat in thecanoe's center, and Duncan positioned himself just in front of me.
The water was reddish with tannins from all the mangrove stems, and tiny islands went by on eitherside as we pulled away from Flamingo,hundreds of islands. Seen from theair, we knew that the area would appear as a watery labyrinth, flat as flat, with rather shallowbrackish water and a few islands with ground above water. This large expanse of island-dotted shallow water is open to the sea to the southand west, and is called SharkBay. Most of the "islands" were drowned by a few inchesof water and we recovered with mangroves, those low trees with largeleathery leave sand exposed prop roots. We paddled for hours, liberally coated with mosquito repellent, through clouds of the tiny hummers, encountering herons, egrets, spoonbills, alligators, and otherinteresting creatures. Duncanwas aveteran of many canoe day trips,and looked eagerly forward as we cameto each new twist and turn in the mangrove maze. At midday, we drew our canoes together into afloating island of aluminum pods, and shared out sandwichesand drinks. Duncanwasmost interested in this aspect,and of course I had made atuna sandwich just for him and had brought some Milk-Bones as well as a canteen and his water dish. Half an hour later, we paddled to find an islandwhere we could make a potty stop. Finally we found alarge island of solid ground under only six inches of water. It was thebest we could do, so we indicated girls' and boy's areas, tiedup the canoes to mangroves, and sloshed around to find hidden places. Duncan came with me, but when he realized that dryground was not to behead, gave me an extremely sour look andlifted his leg on a mangrove branch.Without waiting for me, hestalked back to the canoe, hopped in, and would not look at me for thenext hour, as he was sure it was all my fault that there wasno dry land. We paddled. We paddled and paddled and paddled,knowing that there was no choice: we absolutely HAD to reach Cape Sable beforedark. Otherwise we might miss a trail marker and get lost inthe watery mangrove maze, and certainlywould be eaten alive by mosquitoes the momentour insect repellent ran out. As the sunshine began to fade into dusk, the whineof the mosquitoes seemed deafening. We paddledfaster. "I am not tired," I began to think to myself. "No, Iam absolutely not tired." As the red sun sank into the black arms of thepassing mangroves and the clouds turned toorangey-gold, fish began to break the surface of the water,risingthrough fiery reflections to the swarms of insects. Somesmallish jumped. Soon, larger fish joined in. Many of these weremullet, the pale,torpedo-shaped edible fellows of brackish bayand estuary. Most of the mullet were about as long as a forearm. Duncanwas fascinated by the splashing of the fish, and stood up to lean over the gunwale where he could get the best view. Suddenly a great gray head burst from the water.A silver body as long as I am tall thrust itself five feet into the air and fell on its side in a thunder of water. Belatedly I realized that this was a tarpon!
Tarpon surfaced all around us, their mirror like scalesflashing orange in the low-angled light of the sunset. The tarponarrowed from the water to heights that seemedimpossible, then fell with a crash in fountains of spray.This wasexciting, and I found myself wishing I had brought fishinggear.However, the light was fading fast, and we paddled on. Withoutwarning,something heavy and wet hit me in the chest,instantly knocking me flat on my back. Luckily I was toostunned to drop my paddle. I sat myself up just intime to see a four-foot tarpon in the boat, its head between my knees. Its huge tail thrashed back andforth, smacking little Duncanin theface each time. With a final convulsion, the big fish wriggled itselfout of the canoe and into the water again. There was just enough lightfor me to catch look of daggers from Duncan'littlebrown eyes. This was most certainly all my fault. He wouldn't look atme for the remainder of that leg of the journey. When I broke down intohelpless slaughter, I had crossed the line, and he was not going to letme forge tit.
Damply, we paddled toward the place where the sunhad gone down, tarpon smacking the water all around us. At last, justas true darkness closed upon us, the lead canoe's paddlers cried, "Landho!" We set to with renewed vigor, and in a few minutes came out upon apale, dry beach perhaps 30feet wide and a hundred yards long, backed bythe watery mangrove maze.Wehandmade Cape Sable. Duncanjumped from the canoe,wagging, and rolled on the beach, digging in hisshoulders, his ultimate expression of satisfaction. This was dry land.It was good. Merrilywe laid out the camp, built a driftwood fire, and set about cooking theevening meal. The stars were out in force: Cape Sable was far from theusual sources of air pollution. Little wavelets lapped at the shore,but otherwise it was silent. Eventually,full of hot food and steamingcoffee, we dosed ourselves yet again with mosquito repellent, found theright sleeping bag in the long line laid out on the sand,and fellasleep. Upat dawn, we found that Cape Sable was indeed a beach made of pinkshells, unharvested and beautiful. The Cape SableSparrow made anappearance and was seen by all. Backed by a sunrise that turned theocean the color of ripe peaches, we cooked
breakfast,packed up, and loaded the canoes for the return trip."Piece of cake,"someone said. Then we made the discovery. The bottle of mosquito repellent for one of thecanoes had some how disappeared. We turned out our whole kit, but itwas gone. The rest of us adjust enough in our bottles to make it backto Flamingo. I remembered an expedition to Mexicoyears before,during which I had somehow moved one upper arm outside my mosquitonetting at a beach campsite near Mazatlan.Over300 mosquito bites had puffed my arm to twice its size, making it hotand swollen. I had been very sick for days, and there were far moremosquitoes here than had been there. So what should we do?
One of us realized that if we abandoned themangrove trail and instead took to the ocean, the distance would beshorter by one-third, faster because there wcould be no winding about,and hopefully the breeze on the open sea would keep the tiny menaces atbay. We could still canoe all the way to Flamingo. We would take atangential path right across Florida Bay.
 None of us had ever canoed in the sea before, butthere was nothing left to do but begin. Waves and swells were somethingnew in our experience.We shipped some water. I looked at Duncan,buthe was leaning into the wind. His ears were up and his tail was gentlyswinging ffrom side to side. He well knew that this was an adventure. Before long, we learned how to deal with theswells and small whitecaps.The day was bright and warm, the breeze justenough to blow the pesky mosquitoes back to shore. Far out to sea,great ships passed; closer in, and sailboats skimmed along. It was agreat day. In individual canoes, weave our lunches and continuedpaddling. We could tell that we were making good time.
Click any of the Seven Stories below and Travel to Florida's Magnificent Everglades.
Florida's Magnificent Everglades - A small group of visitors clusters at the edge of a pond behind the Shark Valley Visitor Center in Everglades National Park. Two minutes of visiting the Everglades and the first gator had already been spotted. Try spotting a bear that fast in Yellowstone."CRACKER" The term stems from the early days when Florida cowboy cow cavalrymen, in lieu of the rope used by Texas cowboys, welded a bullwhip, 10 - 12 feet long made of braided leather, and when snapped over a cow's head, made a sharp"crack". Thus was born the term "cracker" Romancing the Swamp Local eco-tour provider wades into the Florida wild. Scared of the swamp? Intrigued by the swamp? Then explore the swamp. It will forever change you. Everglades Stories - We’re trying to find ways to restore wetlands and to do it in a way that will really benefit the water quality when it finally does leave the land and also to store the water there and not sort of pipeline it straight into Lake Okeechobee and pipeline it into the everglades. Everglades Cape Sable Through the Everglades to a shore about 20 miles to the west of Flamingo, called Cape Sable.and was said to have a pink beach literally made from shells, and also was habitat to the rare and elusive Cape Sable Sparrow, which we all wanted to see. Little Everglades Ranch - The Little Everglades Ranch is a pioneer ranch establishing the First Santa Gertrudis herd of cattle in Florida. This breed was established to function in hot, humid and unfavorable environments. The Santa Gertrudis was developed by crossing Indian Brahman cattle with British Shorthorns and was first introduced to the Little Everglades Ranch from the King Ranch ~ Kingsville, Texas in the year 1941.
We were moving steadily, halfa mile from the shore toward Flamingo, our own canoe bringing up therear. Everything was going well when I felt something bump theunderside of the canoe. "Hey!" Alan said after another bump."What'sgoing on? Hammerheadsharks were what was going on. We looked into the slightlyturbid water and saw hundreds of close-packed hammerheads on every sideof the canoe. These were little fellows, from two to five feet long,but they stil had jaws. Nonplused, we looked at one another in silencebefore beginning to paddle hard toward shore. They bumped us again andagain - ominous,because we were so loaded with gear that the gunwaleswere less than an inch above the surface of the sea.
The hammerheads stayed with us. We couldn't seemto paddle fast enough to outdistance them. The other canoers respondedto our yells and waves by cheerfully waving at us and continuing onahead. Grimly, we paddled. We had already shipped several quarts ofwater. DuncanknewI was worried, and lay down in the center of the boat where he couldkeep an eye on me. Suddenly there was splashing,andlarge fins cut the water, heading straight for us. Terrified, wethought only of larger sharks.
Theywere dolphins, a pod of perhaps six or eight of them.Withoutfurther ado, they began to ram the little hammerhead sharks, slammingtheir hard beaks into the soft sides of the sharks. Duncanjoined in the excitement, leaning over the side and barking. One of thedolphins raised its head and barked back,startling Duncansomuch that he sat right down and shut his muzzle. The dolphins made short work of the hammerheads,routing thing minutes.The dolphins escorted our canoe for a few hundredyards more, then disappeared into the cloudy waters of the bay almostat the moment we spied the palm tree sand green lawns of FlamingoCampground. Wearily we beached our canoes and went to washaway the grime and salt spray. Happily, Duncanliftedhis leg on an oleander bush, then rolled and rolled on the grass. Hehandmade it to real dry land at last.  The End
If you go: Information about paddling the Everglades' Coast Where to start: Logistically we found it abit tricky to follow the route we did. There was no one-way car rentalpossible from Miami Airport to either Flamingo, the settlement in thesouthern part of the Park, or to Everglades City, the town borderingthe northern part of the Park. At arrival in Miami, we took a shuttlevan to Key Largo, paddled from there all the way to Marco Island,collapsed the boat and took a taxi to Naples Regional Airport(about 18km north of Marco), where we rented a car, which we returned at theMiami Airport. An easier way would be to do a loop, starting inFlamingo, then paddling the inland route north to Everglades City, thensouth along the coast back to Flamingo. The only challenge is getting from Miami to Flamingo. There is no public bus or van service. If youdon’t have your own car, there seem to be only a few choices: Take theGreyhound from Miami to Homestead, then a cab to Flamingo, or pay someone on a fishing boat to take you from Key Largo or Islamorada toFlamingo. That way, you would at least get a scenic tour of Florida Bay. When to go: December through April (the dryseason) is the best time for paddling the Everglades.Daycare usually clear, average highs range from about 20o C to 27o C,the hurricane season is (officially) over, and the bugs are fewer. Butof course, these are all averages. The cold front that stormed downfrom the north at the end of our kayak trip pushed the nighttimetemperature down to about 8o C! (That felt cold – but it froze thebugs!) Before we arrived, Florida had experienced unseasonably warmweather, which explained why the insects were still fierce when we gotthere. Perhaps it was the bugs, or the fact that we arrived shortlybefore the busy tourist season (around Christmas) that we had most ofthe campsites to ourselves. Boat/Equipment: If you’re not bringing yourown boat, Florida Bay Outfitters in Key Largo rents canoes and kayaksand sells paddling equipment, nautical charts and guide books, andthey offer guided tours from half a day to a week. We spent an hourtalking to the owner, who provided us with valuable information aboutthe route. In Everglades City, North American Canoe Tours rents boatsand gear. Of the few paddlers we met or caught sight of during ourtrip,most were in canoes, but for paddling the coast we definitely prefer a kayak. Permit: To camp inEverglades National Park, a back country permit is required. The permits US $10 and can be obtained at the Park Visitor’s Center in eitherFlamingo or Everglades City, or, as we found out, can be arranged viaphone if you’re entering the Park from the east (Key Largo or one ofthe towns on the Keys). You have to write up a float plan,which specifies where you are camping each night, and your total staying theback country must not exceed 14 days (In our case, Parks personnel in Everglades City graciously allowed us to complete our 17-day trip on one permit.) At some campsites (mainly the chickens),you are only allowed to stay for one or two nights. On others, such as the beach sites along Cape Sable, you can hang out for up to a week. Maps/Guidebooks: To follow the route we did,youneed three nautical charts: #33E (Florida Bay), #39 (Lost mans River toWhitewater Bay), and #41 (Everglades & Ten Thousand Islands).Another good source of information about the route and each campsite isA Paddler’s Guide to Everglades National Park by Johnny Molloy,University Press of Florida, 2000. HotTips: * Unlessyou want to drown your bodyinDEET daily, bring a bug shirt with a head net. * Ifyou’d like to supplement yourdinners with fresh fish, bring a spin cast (we had only moderatesuccess trolling with hand-lines.) Fishing license: US $32 obtainableat marine supply stores. * Sincethere is no freshwater availablealong the entire route, make sure you’ve filled up before you leave (wefound that 3 liters per person per day worked well for us, althoughoutfitters and guide books recommended a gallon per person/day.) *Bring a golf umbrella. * Alligators:Don’t believe otherpeople’s horror stories. Most alligators are very skittish – we onlysaw one or two during our entire kayak trip.
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